The fashion industry is experiencing a lot of upset lately. First Suzy Menkes writes a hate article against Bryanboy, Anna della Russo et al., then Tim Blanks outlined the negative consequences of the streetstyle phenomenon in a mini-documentary, and now Diane Pernet is criticizing a fashion industry that has forgotten how to criticize.
She writes that in other areas of culture, for example film, or theater, critique is possible, but that is not the case in the fashion industry. According to Pernet you can be sure to be uninvited from the next fashion show if you criticize someone’s fashion beforehand. True criticism happens virtually never, which isn’t really news. It’s also not a secret that the magazines depend on their advertising clients.
If you book an ad in a magazine you get content in return, that’s the rules in the fashion industry.
Such dependencies however, do not only emerge in the print world, but also in the online universe. But when fashion journalists point out that the bloggers’ opinion is influenced by presents of labels that is, mildly put, absurd. The phenomenon of influencing fashion media with presents or purchase of ad space is did not emerge together with the bloggers.
Diane Pernet has a similar opinion:
“The ones that write their content based on who is paying the bills are no better/or worse than the magazines that only report on their advertisers”
She is particularly harsh with her former employer, Vogue:
” Are current Vogue editors critics? I’m not sure if a lot of editors even read books, much less offer serious criticism of the collections that they cover. Their focus is more about fitting all the advertisers into the editorial pages.”
Not many fashion journalists are critical even from time to time. They work for the big papers whose dependency of the fashion industry they write about is very limitied, or rather doesn’t exist at all. This group of reporters in the fashion industry includes for example Cathy Horn, Eric Wilson, and Suzy Menkes.
You can find the entire article of our highly estimated Diane Pernet here.
Von: David Kurt Karl Roth